Five years ago, I don’t think Mathieu or I could have ever imagined not wanting to surf. This was during the time of driving two hours from Nantes out to Quiberon or some other windblown rocky outcropping in Brittany, suiting up in copious layers of neoprene to surf in near-freezing temperatures, braving 50F water, for a couple of mediocre waves. To exit the water with the dreaded crawhand, unable to manipulate fingers or car keys or zippers, not thawing out until an hour later in some brasserie over a pint.
Today, surfing is no longer a driving force, a “we have to go out against all odds,” a near addiction. It is still important, very important, but it is a release, a moment of tranquility away from diapers and strollers. A pelican gliding along the face of a wave, a dolphin piercing the surface with a dorsal, the color of the water beneath a duckdive. And surprisingly enough, we surf less but gain more.


Et voila. Nous nous retrouvons à deux mois avec Eleonor. Et qu’est-ce que la vie est belle.
Well here we are. Two months into a whole new world. Eleonor has forever changed our lives.
Life with Eleonor is amazing…she is the most wonderful baby in the world. Observant, curious, mellow, she has graced our lives so sweetly. She hardly cries except when really hungry and Mom is still surfing before coming in for boob duty, or when the diaper needs a change. It is really true, that a parent’s love for a child is something so incredible and strong.