Surf and priorities

Five years ago, I don’t think Mathieu or I could have ever imagined not wanting to surf.  This was during the time of driving two hours from Nantes out to Quiberon or some other windblown rocky outcropping in Brittany, suiting up in copious layers of neoprene to surf in near-freezing temperatures, braving 50F water, for a couple of mediocre waves.  To exit the water with the dreaded crawhand, unable to manipulate fingers or car keys or zippers, not thawing out until an hour later in some brasserie over a pint.

Today, surfing is no longer a driving force, a “we have to go out against all odds,” a near addiction.  It is still important, very important, but it is a release, a moment of tranquility away from diapers and strollers.  A pelican gliding along the face of a wave, a dolphin piercing the surface with a dorsal, the color of the water beneath a duckdive.  And surprisingly enough, we surf less but gain more.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: